The ins and outs of vegan leather
Vegan leather has become a popular leather alternative, but there may be more to it than just being animal-free.
Faux leather has been in the fashion industry for a while, but the “vegan leather” label did not gain prominence until around 2010. At the time, some celebrity designers began basing their clothing lines on the concept of being animal-free. Thus, traditional animal leather was replaced with synthetic alternatives, which came to be known as vegan leather.
Types of vegan leathers
As the name suggests, vegan leather is manufactured without any animal byproducts. There are three main types of vegan leather: faux, plastic-free and plant-based.
Faux leather is mostly made of a cotton or polyester base which is then bound by synthetic materials like polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Since this material is mostly plastic-based, it is also commonly called “pleather” (plastic leather). Being almost entirely plastic, this kind of leather is not environmentally friendly, and is often not grouped into what is typically considered “vegan leather.”
Plastic-free leather is not as common in the current fashion industry due to a lack of manufacturers. This material is relatively new compared to the other two vegan leathers. Plastic-free leather is sometimes not even considered leather, but its own material because of its unique properties.
Plant-based leather is what most people think of first when they think of vegan leather. This kind of leather uses materials like cactus leaves and pineapple. The fruit’s byproducts are often ignored or discarded after it is harvested. To ensure the leather’s durability and water resistance, the plant base is often combined with plastic, typically PU.
Does “vegan leather” mean eco-friendly?
A common misconception among consumers is that the term “vegan” is synonymous with “sustainable” or “eco-friendly.” Unfortunately, this is not always the case, especially with many plant-based leathers. The plastic components of these materials are non-biodegradable, which entirely contradicts the point of making them out of plant byproducts in the first place.
Despite the questionable composition of many plant-based types of leather, many consumers remain unaware of the environmental impact of these materials, partially because of the “vegan” label. According to Forbes, the term “vegan” has largely become a marketing buzzword instead of being used to describe the ingredients behind a product. When customers see this term on a label, their first thought is usually that the product is made of plants. The reality is that “vegan” simply means “not made of animals.”
A survey conducted by Atomic Research on behalf of Leather UK found that out of 2,000 respondents, 74 per cent were unaware of the composition of vegan leather. Fifty per cent thought that animals were raised specifically to make leather, and another 24 per cent did not know that the hides and skins used to make animal leather were simply byproducts of the food industry that would otherwise be discarded. Of course, this does not undo the unethical nature of many practices in the animal leather industry, but it does dispel the common notion that animal leather is always bad and vegan leather is always good.
It is important to also note that Leather UK is a trade association in the animal leather industry. They partner with various companies to promote their own industry, so they will naturally be biased towards the animal leather products they endorse. However, this does not change the findings of their survey as well as the confusing labelling of vegan leather products.
The future of vegan leather
Despite the confusion, some promising advancements are being made in the vegan leather industry with fully biodegradable plastic-free leathers that are eco-friendlier than their plastic-hybrid counterparts. GoodOnYou’s list of leather alternatives outlines some of these plastic-free options. These include Mirum (made of natural rubber, plant-based oil and minerals), Malai (manufactured with wastewater from coconut processing) and MuSkin (made from the fungus Phellinus ellipsoideus). While these are interesting prospects, they do not come without their own problems. Plastic-free leathers are often weaker and more expensive than regular leather. Additionally, since many are relatively new, they have received little investment for further development.
Much more nuance exists in the leather industry than meets the eye. There are pros and cons to both animal and vegan compositions, and neither type of product is inherently better than the other. If your business chooses to sell either of these leather products, be transparent about what goes into them. Consumers should be aware of what they are purchasing by being able to easily determine the makeup of these products. Continue to do more research to see if leather products are a good investment for your business.

Kyle Quilatan
Kyle is a reporter for Business Hub. He enjoys art, music and reading, and is prepared to take a nap at any given time.